8/7-8/13 Going Home On Steel Wheels

Glacier National Park and Banff, Canada

July 23 - August 8, 2013

The Great Train Escape

WOW. We visited a World Of Wonder.

Every day was filled with beauty and fun. Glacier, Banff, Yoho, Kootenay, Jasper, and Waterton National Parks are spectacular places. The places we visited were spiritual and serene even when we were tired and hungry.

We boarded the Empire Builder for the ride home on wheels of steel. Good ride. Good food. Good fun.

Thanks for joining us.

8/5/13 Tea And Biscuits

Glacier National Park and Banff, Canada

July 23 - August 8, 2013

The Great Train Escape

Our last day Canada.  Every day has provided something special and today's activities were outstanding. We hiked 2.2 miles with an elevation of 1265 feet to the Agnes Lake Tea House.  It was a tiring hike, but well worth it. The lake was beautiful, the rustic 1920s style Tea House without electricity was fantastic and the biscuits, jam and maple tea yummy. We had to remind ourselves that we were not dreaming, but in a real place enjoying the weather, the setting, the food and the people.

Coming down 2.2 miles wasn't as difficult as going up, but challenging in its own way.  The treat at the end of the trail is the Lake Louise Fairmont Hotel.

It was fun to walk directly from the trail into the Fairmont and confirm our reservations for one night. Never stayed in a hotel that grand, might not again, and we enjoyed it to the max. Dinner overlooking Lake Louise was a five star and five fork experience. Yipee. What a way to wind down from the previous days of hiking and searching for wildlife (bears, moose etc. not two leggeds in bars).

Next Blog: Going Home On Steel Wheels.

8/4/13 Getting High

Glacier National Park and Banff, Canada

July 23 - August 8, 2013

The Great Train Escape

Gondolas to the top of the mountain. You knew that's what we meant. Early this morning we rode the Lake Louise Gondola to see the view of Lake Louise area, the famed Fairmont Hotel and bears. We were rewarded in every respect. On the way up, there were 3 bears were in the bushes below us and the view from the top was spectacular. In the past few days Jolene, a grizzly,  had been showing up at the top of the gondola. Her appearance dictated the sequestering of people in the facilities for as long as she dined in the area - perhaps 1-2 hours. We didn't wait for her to come for breakfast, but we think we saw her from the gondola as we went down the mountain. Driving back to Lake Louise, we saw another grizzly on the side of the road. This one had a ranger stationed on the road above and below her. The rangers stopped the cars and let her cross in peace. We don't know how she arranged that, but she had everyone standing at attention. Amazing creatures.

After a 2 mile afternoon hike at Lake Morraine, we had a lovely dinner at the Lake Louise Train depot. I know, it sounds like chips and a sandwich made 12 hours previous to the meal. However, the restaurant in the restored historic depot is for real. If you are in the area, make a reservation and enjoy.

Next blog: Tea And Blisters Biscuits.

8/3/13 The Truffle Pig

Glacier National Park and Banff, Canada

July 23 - August 8, 2013

The Great Train Escape

Today was magnificent. We went to Yoho Park in British Columbia to see Takakkaw Falls, the highest waterfalls in western Canada, the famous Emerald Lake and have a special dessert in Field, BC.

Emerald Lake is as beautiful as everyone claims.  Like Peyto Lake, the color of the water in Emerald Lake is spellbinding. At Emerald Lake we were treated to several special enchanting moments. No, not a truffle pig. We were in a canoe at the quite end of the lake and came upon 2 loons. They were busy fishing and called many times as we watched them. To be in that gorgeous setting and hear the call of the loons was good for the soul.

While most of the lakes are turquoise, some of the streams in this area are grey because of the sediment that the glacier water brings from the rocks. We happened upon an area where one side of the river was blue and the other side was gray. Not a very good picture, but it was exciting to see it.

It was mid afternoon when we arrived in Field. Now comes the part about the Truffle Pig. No, we didn't have it for a snack, but we ate delicious homemade peach/apricot pie at the Truffle Pig restaurant.
A neighbor had been there and told us about the pie before we left Indy. It was scrumptious.

Worth the trip.


Next blog: Getting high.

8/2/13 The Fuzzy Bear Has An Itch

Glacier National Park and Banff, Canada

July 23 - August 8, 2013

The Great Train Escape

Rain was predicted for the Lake Louise area so we drove to Jasper in Jasper National Park, the largest park in the Canadian Rockies.

Along the way we took a short hike to Peyton Lake. Peyto is like many other lakes in the area, a brilliant blue/green color.  It is considered by some as one of the 25 most colorful lakes in the world.

We stood on an overlook and viewed Peyto from several hundred feet above the lake. At every other lake there were people on the shore, boating or swimming. There was no one below us. The lake lay calm and tranquil.  Even from a crowded viewing area, the peacefulness of the lake could be felt. It was a special place.

The 3 hour drive on the Icefields Parkway to Jasper was gorgeous. Spectacular. A lot of wows. We stopped to view the Columbia Ice Field and it is impressive, but a lot smaller than it has been in the past.

We were in the town of Jasper for such a short period of time, we don't have much to report. As in all of this area, the flowers were beautiful.  It was interesting to see that every house we saw in the town had a fence around it. Do you think the fences were to keep the people in or the bears out?

We drove a few miles outside of Jasper to the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge and enjoyed lunch on the patio overlooking the grounds. The cabins situated around the lodge made us think of the setting of the movie Dirty Dancing (cabins were a tad more luxurious at the Jasper Fairmont).

On the drive back to Lake Louise we saw 3 deer and finally got a close look at a bear. The deer were eating along a busy road and we were afraid to stop for fear they would get spooked and run onto the highway. The bear, however, was eating in the woods along an isolated area of a road. When we stopped, he came up the slight incline one car in front of us. As he came along the road toward us, he never looked at us or gave any indication he cared we were watching him. It  appeared he was at a buffet - going from bush to bush pulling them toward him and stripping them of berries. After he passed our car he turned to go back into the woods, but stopped to scratch his back first. Good show, fuzzy bear. Thanks

Remember this poem?

Fuzzy Wuzzy was a bear.
Fuzzy Wuzzy had no hair.
So Fuzzy Wuzzy wasn't fuzzy
Was he?


Next blog: The Truffle Pig

8/1/13 What Were We Thinking?

Glacier National Park and Banff, Canada

July 23 - August 8, 2013

The Great Train Escape

On our way to the hotel in Lake Louise, we took a side trip to Kootenay National Park. We specifically wanted to see Marble Canyon and the Ochre Paint Pots. The hike to Marble Canyon was a great 1.5 mile hike. The Canandian park service has built several bridges over the narrow and deep canyon.  At the end of the trail was a series of powerful waterfalls and stunning shapes and colors.

Now comes the "what were we thinking part." The short trail to the Ochre Paint Pots was closed because of the recent floods. As we stood at the head of the longer trail to the Pots, two rangers came off the trail. They were equipped with chain saws and axes. Grinning from ear to ear, they announced they had the long trail open and it was safe to use. They seemed proud of their hard work.

We took off down the trail. It was open and beautiful. It was also longer than we thought and more diverse in terrain than any we had hiked. Not many people use this trail and it was narrow. At times the thick bushes on each side of the trail were almost 5 feet tall and sometimes we were gingerly making our way through rocks and logs along the river bank.

The forested trail opened (finally) onto a large meadow of flowers and red, marshy areas. The Paint Pots are considered sacred by the First Nation People. It was a special place. Very different from anything we had seen. Worth the hike.

The total hiking for the day was about 6 miles, so when it was suggested we go to the hostel in Lake Louise for dinner, Linda thought the suggestion was for a hospital and was first to put her name on the list.

 Actually, the International Hostel in Lake Louise was just what the doctor ordered. Good food, relaxed atmosphere, fun staff and great people watching. It was a pleasure to see the diversity of people checking in. Senior citizens, young people. Some getting out of their motor homes and some walking in off the trail. Some clean and some dusty. All like us, tired and smiling.

Next blog: The Fuzzy Bear Has An Itch.

7/31/13 Oh Canada, Eh?

Glacier National Park and Banff, Canada

July 23 - August 8, 2013

We spent today in the town of Canmore. It is a small community known for it's artist community, Ammorlite factory, hiking trails, cafes and Oh Canada, Eh?, a dinner theater.

Our first stop was at the Ammorlite factory and we went there hoping to find a small piece to buy. Eh? HA, Eh! They are extremely expensive (even small chips) and beautiful. It is taken from the outer shells of fossilized ammonites. It's story is fascinating. The catalog can be found at the following link if you want to order something.

ammonitefactory.com/ammolite-history/ammolite-mining/

After enjoying lunch at an outdoor cafe on main street, we hiked on one of their many trails that take advantage of the river that flows through the town. It was a fun walk as we talked to several walkers that were residents of Canmore. We got a different perspective than when we jostled with other tourists for a spot to take a picture. 

The dinner theater, Oh Canada, Eh?, used food, story and song to educate about Canada in a fun way.  It was an evening of sing alongs and laughs.

Next blog: What Were We Thinking?

7/30/13 Lunch At Harry Potter's Hogwarts's School of Witchcraft and Wizardry

Glacier National Park and Banff, Canada

July 23 - August 8, 2013

The Great Train Escape

Early this morning we drove north on the Bow Parkway to the Johnston Canyon trail head. We were eager to see bears, elk and moose. We didn't see any, but we hiked about 3.5 miles round trip on one of the most popular trails in the Rockies and there were hordes of people. The trail was a series of well maintained catwalks beneath overhanging canyon walls with the turbulent waters of Johnston Creek flowing beneath our feet. A unique experience for us.

A funky cafe built in the early 1900s was at the trailhead, and after the hike we enjoyed hot chocolate, again. And again, the hot chocolate was a quick fix until we could drive back to Banff and have lunch on the patio of the Banff Springs Fairmont Hotel. Okay, so it wasn't Hogwarts.  The exterior of the hotel reminded us of Hogwarts and being there was magical.

After dinner in downtown Banff, we attended a free concert by students studying at the Banff Center's Summer Music Program. The program was in a beautiful little church and provided a pleasant and relaxing evening.

Next blog: Oh Canada, Eh?

7/29/13 Entering Another WOW

Glacier National Park and Banff, Canada

July 23 - August 8, 2013

The Great Train Escape

We can't tell you how many times we uttered the word wow as we toured Glacier and Waterton. WOW -  World Of Wonder - continued as we moved farther north in Canada.

Our intended destination for a hike on this day was the Sunshine Village Ski Resort near Banff. However, floods had devastated much of the infrastructure and we were not able to get into the area. As an alternative, we hiked along Minnewanka Lake and the river. We were not disappointed.

We stopped to admire an alpine meadow and had the good fortune to encounter a deer. She came toward us and then bypassed us. Just a little tease to say hello.

It was a cool day and as we finished the hike, a little shower of rain made it cooler. In fact, it was cold.  The hot chocolate stand at the trail head was a temporary fix, but  as soon as we got to Banff, we bought long johns, a rain jacket and gloves.

That evening we enjoyed delicious tapas at El Toro restaurant in Banff. It was a relaxing way to end a beautiful day.

Next blog: Lunch at Harry Potter's Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry.

7/28/13 Linda's Destination When She Runs Away

Glacier National Park and Banff, Canada

July 23 - August 8, 2013

The Great Train Escape

Okay. It's where the mountains meets the prairie - Waterton Lakes National Park, Canada - if I can't make it to Zermatt, Switzerland or Murano, Italy.  In Waterton I'll be at the Prince of Wales Hotel.

As the world's first peace park, the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park was created in 1932 as a symbol of peace and goodwill between US and Canada. It has evolved to also represent cooperation in a world of shared resources. The area has a distinctive climate and physical geography in which the rain fall  divides toward the Pacific, Atlantic and the Arctic Oceans. It is the only place in the world that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, an International Peace Park, and a Biosphere Reserve.

Next blog: Entering Another WOW

7/27/13 Rest, Relax, Recover, Shop

Glacier National Park and Banff, Canada

July 23 - August 8, 2013

The Great Train Escape

Ahhh, a day to catch up with ourselves, soak our feet, walk around trying to find cell phone service and shop for necessities like T shirts in the small village of West Glacier.

Our rental car was delivered to the train station during the afternoon - doors unlocked and keys in the jockey box (common name for glove box in Montana, Idaho, etc.). We took a ride to some small towns in the area before dinner.

We had our second meal in 3 nights (last night we were too tired to eat)  at the Belton Chalet Restaurant. The food was worth a second visit and we enjoyed the setting very much.


Next Blog: Linda's destination when she runs away.

7/26/13 Avalanche Lake Hike -

Glacier National Park and Banff, Canada

July 23 - August 8, 2013

The Great Train Escape

The Avalanche Lake Hike

This day started with a ride on the park's public shuttle to the Avalanche Lake Trailhead. The temperature was in the high 60s. Perfect for a hike. The travel book and the people at the hotel said the trail was an easy, 6 mile round trip hike, in the shade, with an elevation of only 300 meters.

The info we didn't get was there were numerous inclines in the elevation of 300 meters. So we walked up and down small hills the entire time we were elevating 300 meters in 3 miles and the temperature rose rapidly.

We were, however, dazzled by the scenery along the way.

We were also encouraged by folks returning from Avalanche Lake. They would take one look at

us as we dragged ourselves up the hill and offer encouragement - the most frequent being, 

"It's worth it." 

Linda's mantra was, "I had better be."

It was. 

On the way down we came across a mule deer who was attempting to travel up the 

trail. It was within 20 feet of us and seemed to be confused that all 
the hikers were on her trail. She calmly walked a few steps into the woods and bypassed us. 

We made it back to the trailhead and the shuttle stopped for riders. We practically 

pushed children and the frail out of the way so we could get on the bus. The shuttle took us to Apgar Village, about 3 miles from out hotel.

At Apgar Village we had a well deserved cold drinks and a much appreciated lunch at Eddie's 

Cafe. We began to feel better and talked ourselves into believing we were hikers. After all, we had hiked a tough 6 miles and and still had the mental capacity to aggrandize our 

accomplishment. 

Since the shuttle wouldn't show up for 3-4 hours, we decided to walk to the hotel - 

a mere 3 miles on a bike path. Piece of cake. So off we went.

It was now 90 degrees and a cake could have baked on the sunlit asphalt paved bike path. Our toes, arches, ankles, calves, knees, thighs, hips and back hurt. We were perfect candidates 

for the Our Lady Of Peace Rest Home.     

We made it to the hotel and stayed there the remainder of the afternoon and night. 

 Next blog: Rest, Relax, Recover, Shop

7/25/13 A Ride With A Jammer

Glacier National Park and Banff, Canada

July 23 - August 8, 2013

The Great Train Escape

A Ride With A Jammer

On the first day of our visit to Glacier National Park, we took the Road To The Sun Tour to the Top Of The Continent on the the historic, Red Bus convertible.  The Red Bus has been operating in the park for 75 years. The drivers are called Jammers because in the early days they would jam the gears as they maneuvered the bus over the narrow and often rough roads in the park. Today the roads are wider and much to our surprise there was only one switch back on the Road to the Sun.


As for the scenery, we had to remember to breathe. 

We visited 3 grand lodges. It seems that in the 1930s a snow storm in July stranded visitors in the lodges for several days. They found it a perfect time to celebrate Christmas and gift giving. The lodges have continued to celebrate Christmas in July. Lake MacDonald Lodge was the most festive for the holiday. It is also listed as one of the best examples of a swiss chalet hotel in America. 

We enjoyed lunch and the view of the Swiftcurrent Lake at Many Glacier Hotel. At St. Mary's Lodge we indulged in berry ice cream. It wasn't huckleberry, the most talked about ice cream in the park, but it was delicious. While in Glacier, we had wonderful huckleberry pancakes and syrup one morning. Huckleberry jam, BBQ sauce and candy were also available. It was a Glacier/Montana/Western thing.

We stopped at Logan's Pass which is the highest point on the road and on the Continental Divide. Our special treat was to 
see mountain goats on the walking path, and, although much farther away, a herd of big horn sheep grazed on the mountain side.

Next blog: The Avalanche Trail Hike and a trip to the Our Lady Of Peace Rest Home (almost).